Emerald Buyer's Guide
Emerald has many special qualities, but coloured stone professionals generally agree that emeralds are most of all, about colour. Subtle variations make significant differences in value.
COLOUR IS THE MOST IMPORTANT QUALITY FACTOR FOR EMERALD
The most desirable emerald colours are bluish green to pure green, with vivid colour saturation and tone that’s not too dark. This perfect colour balance makes Colombian and Brazilian emeralds in particular so popular. The most-prized emeralds are highly transparent as opposed to cloudy or heavily included ones which may appear opaque. Their colour is evenly distributed, with no eye-visible colour zoning.
Valeria's Secret Fine Jewellery with Emeralds
CLARITY REFERS TO THE INCLUSIONS
Emeralds typically contain some inclusions that are visible to the unaided eye. Because of this, trade members and consumers understand and accept the presence of inclusions in emeralds. Eye-clean emeralds are especially valuable because they’re so rare.
Valeria's Secret Fine Jewellery with Emeralds
CUT IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTORS IN APPEARANCE
The most popular cut for emeralds is the emerald step-cut due to it being developed specifically to highlight the original shape and natural features of emerald crystals. Well cut stones maximize the beauty of the colour while minimizing the impact of fissures, and creating a bright, lively stone. Emerald cut is also recommended for emeralds because they can be fragile, whereas this cut is more gentle and can aid in preserving the gem.
Valeria's Secret Fine Jewellery with Emeralds
CARAT WEIGHT ALLOWS FOR PRECISE MEASUREMENTS
Emeralds come in a wide range of sizes and shapes. There are emeralds in museums and private collections that weigh hundreds of carats. At the other extreme are tiny emeralds that weigh fractions of a carat. Quality-for-quality, the price of emerald can rise dramatically as the size increases.
Valeria's Secret Fine Jewellery with Emeralds
GEM ORIGIN
Emeralds can be natural (mined) or lab grown, and both are genuine emeralds sharing the same chemical composition and crystal structure. Natural emeralds are valued for their rarity, with major sources including Colombia, Zambia, and Brazil. Lab-grown emeralds are created using processes that replicate natural growth conditions and offered at a lower price point while displaying the same optical and physical properties. Neither origin is inherently "better" — the choice comes down to budget, values around rarity, and personal preference.
TREATMENT
Almost all natural emeralds are treated to improve their appearance, and this is standard, accepted practice in the trade. Lab-grown emeralds are generally more clear and do not require any treatment. The most common emerald treatment is oiling (or resin filling), where colourless oils or resins are used to fill the surface-reaching fissures that are nearly universal in emerald, making inclusions less visible, improving apparent clarity, and reducing the gems' fragility. The degree of treatment matters for value and is generally graded as:
None — untreated, exceptionally rare and highly valuable
Minor — a small amount of filler present
Moderate — the trade standard, widely accepted
Significant — a substantial amount of filler, requiring extra care
Because oil or resin fillers can dry out or be affected by heat and harsh chemicals over time, emeralds should be cleaned gently, if possible, with special solutions for delicate gemstones, avoiding ultrasonic jewellery cleaners and overall treated with care. Some emeralds may require repeated treatment over time.
GEM SETTING
Emerald ranks lower on the hardness scale than diamond or sapphire, and its natural inclusions can make it prone to chipping or cracking under pressure. Because of this, protective settings are recommended:
Bezel settings encircle the stone in metal, shielding the edges and girdle from knocks;
Halo settings add a decorative ring of smaller stones while also offering the centre stone extra support;
Prong settings work well when kept low profile, but can use more prongs (five or six) rather than the standard four to better secure and protect the emerald.
Rings are especially worth thinking through, since finger jewellery takes the most daily impact — many jewellers suggest saving emerald rings for occasional wear, or choosing settings with reinforced edges, while emerald earrings, pendants, and necklaces face less risk and offer more design freedom.
Please read a more comprehensive guide on the Gemological Institute of America website here.
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