Fine Jewellery Care & When Not To Wear
Updated: Sep 30
With the right care, your jewellery can stay beautiful for decades and be passed down for generations. The single best thing you can do is take it off whenever it might be at risk.
Why Jewellery Needs Care
Fine jewellery is tougher than it looks, but it isn't indestructible.
Metal can bend or scratch if it's squeezed, caught on something, or knocked against hard or sharp surfaces. Platinum and 14K gold are considered the strongest of the precious alloys; however, even they have limits.
Gemstones can chip, crack, scratch or work loose if they're banged against a hard surface.
Heat, cold, chemicals, vibration, cosmetics and even water can cause damage to certain gems, which may not be obvious straight away.
When to Take your Jewellery Off
Exercise of any kind. This includes climbing, skiing, hiking, kayaking, snowboarding, ice skating, cycling, pilates, yoga and contact sports. It recently became trendy to wear jewellery when playing sports, however, it's not advisable to do so.
Showering or bathing. Hot water and knocks against taps and fixtures are both risky.
Sleeping, or anything else that puts pressure on your jewellery for hours.
Applying lotion, SPF, oils, make-up, hair products or perfume.
Cooking and baking. Pots, pans and oven trays are hard on rings and bracelets.
Washing up, washing the car or washing the dog.
Cleaning, especially with bleach or other harsh products.
Swimming, hot tubs, steam rooms and saunas. Excessive heat and moisture can damage gems and metals, not mentioning the increased risk of your jewellery accidentally slipping off.
Crafting and gardening. Painting, ceramics, digging in the soil and other messy hobbies.
Hands-on work. If you use your hands a lot or wash them constantly, as nurses, doctors, chefs and delivery drivers do, it's often best to leave your jewellery at home.
The beach. Cold water can make fingers shrink, so a ring may slip off, and the sea is not where you want to lose it. Sand can scratch metal, and sunscreen can cloud your stones.
Scuba diving. Changes in temperature and pressure can loosen a ring, and sudden temperature changes can damage softer stones.
High altitude. Fingers can swell at elevation, leaving a ring uncomfortably tight. Slip it onto a chain around your neck until you're back at ground level.
How to Clean your Jewellery
Gemstones are what need the most attention, because every type behaves differently. Diamonds, sapphires and rubies are among the hardest and most resilient. Emeralds, aquamarines, opals, pearls and many semi-precious stones are more delicate. Rhodium-plated white gold also needs a gentle touch, as the plating can wear away if it's scrubbed too hard.
For everyday cleaning:
Soak your jewellery in warm water with a few drops of mild, anti-grease washing-up liquid.
Brush gently with a soft cloth or a very soft toothbrush.
Rinse in clean, lukewarm water.
Dry with a 100% cotton towel.
Buff metal and stones with a polishing cloth for extra shine. Never use one on matte finishes, as it will spoil them.
Avoid stiff brushes, solvents and abrasive cleaners. Leave ultrasonic cleaning to a professional, because it can damage certain gems and loosen prongs, which puts your stones at risk.
A Quick Guide to Gemstone Hardness
Hardness is measured on the Mohs scale, from 1 to 10. Hardness is only part of the story, because some stones are also brittle or easily affected by heat and chemicals. Still, the lower the number, the more gently a stone needs to be treated.
Gemstone | Mohs hardness | Care level |
Diamond | 10 | Low |
Sapphire, Ruby | 9 | Low |
Topaz | 8 | Medium |
Emerald, Aquamarine, Morganite | 7.5–8 | Medium to high |
Amethyst, Citrine | 7 | Medium |
Peridot | 6.5–7 | High |
Tanzanite | 6–7 | High |
Moonstone | 6–6.5 | High |
Opal | 5.5–6.5 | Very high |
Pearl | 2.5–4.5 | Very high |
Special Care Notes
Opal
Opals are soft and fragile. They can crack with sudden changes in temperature or pressure, or on contact with certain chemicals. They also need some moisture. Stored somewhere very dry, they can crack, but they shouldn't be soaked either, as porous opals absorb water quickly and may change in appearance. Some opals benefit from occasional oiling, particularly in dry climates, but ask a jeweller first. Keep opals out of ultrasonic cleaners. Opals are usually cut as smooth cabochons because sharp facets chip easily, so faceted opals in prong settings need especially careful wear.
Emerald
Emeralds are harder than opals but not as tough as diamonds, sapphires or rubies. Most have natural internal fissures, which make them prone to breaking from a knock, a change in temperature or contact with harsh chemicals. Many emeralds are oiled to support their durability, and some need re-oiling every year, especially in dry climates. Keep them out of ultrasonic cleaners and steam.
Pearls
Pearls are organic, formed inside a living creature, and they are the softest and most sensitive of all gems. They can be marked by perfume, hairspray, cosmetics, sweat and acids, and they scratch easily.
Put them on last and take them off first, after make-up, hairspray and perfume.
Wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth after wearing.
Never use ultrasonic cleaners, steam or household cleaning products.
Store them separately in a soft pouch. Don't seal them in airtight plastic, as pearls need a little humidity.
Strung pearls should be restrung periodically, as the thread stretches and weakens with wear.
Topaz
Topaz is fairly hard, but it has a weak point. It can split along a natural cleavage plane if knocked sharply. Avoid sudden temperature changes, and keep topaz away from ultrasonic cleaners and steam. Some colours, particularly pink and imperial topaz, can fade with prolonged exposure to strong sunlight, so store them out of direct light.
Tanzanite
Tanzanite is much softer than sapphire and is sensitive to heat and to knocks. It is best worn in pieces that see less everyday wear, such as earrings and pendants. Clean it only with lukewarm water, mild soap and a soft cloth, and never use an ultrasonic cleaner or steam.
Aquamarine and Morganite
Both are relatively hard but can contain internal inclusions, and they chip if struck on an edge. Clean gently with mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners if the stone has visible inclusions or fractures.
Amethyst and Citrine
These quartz gems are durable enough for regular wear, but they can fade with long exposure to strong sunlight or heat. Store them away from direct light and don't leave them on a sunny windowsill.
Peridot
Peridot is sensitive to acids, heat and hard knocks. Keep it away from perfume, cleaning products and ultrasonic cleaners, and clean it with warm soapy water only.
Moonstone
Moonstone has a natural cleavage that makes it prone to chipping and cracking. Cabochon cuts are common because they're more forgiving. Wear it with care, avoid knocks, and clean with a soft damp cloth.
Storage and Maintenance Advice
Store each jewellery piece separately whenever you can, use soft pouches or lined jewellery boxes so pieces can't scratch one another. Keep your jewellery away from direct sunlight, excessive heat, moisture, etc.
Use only gentle and appropriate for each gem cleaning products to brighten up your jewellery.
Have your jewellery checked by a professional once in a while, looking at prongs, clasps and settings, particularly for jewellery you wear daily.
If a stone feels loose or you hear a rattle, stop wearing the piece and get it checked straight away. The same applies to earring backs and jewellery clasps, it's always better to check the piece than to risk loosing it.
Not sure how to care for a particular piece? Get in touch and we'll be happy to advise.
Valeria's Secret - fundamentally different 💕 with love xxx
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